- Days: 38
- Period: July
- Weather: In July it is winter in Kenya. In some place is can be cold. In Nairobi it was only 16 degrees during the day. In Nakuru area we had a lot of rain, despite the fact that rainy season was over. Around Mombasa we had one week of real summer, warm and dry and also in the Rift Valley around Naivasha the weather was warmer than elswhere.
Currency: Kenyan Shilling (KSH)
Internet: Widely available throughout the country
ATM's: In almost every town there is an ATM for Visa. ATM's for Cirrus and Maestro are less common.
Creditcards: Creditcards are accepted but not used a lot. At some fuel stations we paid with Visa. Entrance fees for National parks cannot be paid with creditcard.
Safety: Kenya rebels can be active, so it is always wise to check with locals if you will travel to places like Moyale, around Lake Turkana, around Lamu and around Mount Elgon. During our trip Kenya we did not experience any unsafe situation. Also Nairobi, which has the name, was not that bad. In fact, we liked the city and felt safe driving around. We did however took precautions and did not go downtown and did not drive at night.
Prices (per July 2007)
Value Money: €1 = between 86-90 KES
Fuel: Between 64 KES (Mombasa area) and 72 KES (Nairobi)
Camping: Between 200 and 500 Shilling per person per night. Camping in the National Parks was more expensive. Hells Gate NP 5 US$ / Nakuru NP 10 US$ / Masai Mara 15 US$ (all prices per person per night).
We got it in Khartoum. 50 US$ per person and issues within one hour. It seems you can also get it on the border, but when entering through Illeret you need it in advance. For GPS data of Kenyan embassy in Khartoum see Info Sudan.
Visa is a single entry visa. However as Uganda, Kenya and Tanzania form a Union you can travel between these countries without having to buy a new visa. Only when you exit to another country your single entry expires.
Standard your visa is valid for one month, but if at the immigration you immediately request a 3 months visa the change it to 3 months when stamping your passport. This can be handy if you want to circle between Uganda, Kenya and Tanzania.
ENTRY: We've entered Kenya north of Sibiloi NP close to Illeret coming from the Omo Valley in the south of Ethiopia. Here there is no official border post so no immigration or customs. Do not bother to go to the police station in Illeret, because they will not stamp your passport. When you enter through Illeret you must register yourself at the immigration in Nairobi (see waypoints). In this case you must have you visa in advance. The immigration in Nairobi is very easy. They do not ask much and just stamp your passport on the date wished. To have your Carnet stamped you must go to the customs in Nairobi (see waypoints). The customs in town might send you to the airport to clear you Carnet. They tried the same with us, but we just refused. If you have a visa there are no further costs (no tax or duties)
EXIT: We left Kenya at Busia (border with Uganda). Formalities easy done and no costs.
Highlights or not
Driving from Illeret to Maralal: No costs. The best drive of the whole trip so far. This area is very remote but beautiful.
Sibiloi NP: 20 US$ per person and 300 KES for the car per day. Most of the wildlife has been poached so do no go here specially, but coming from Ethiopia it might be worth it. Although not much wildlife the surroundings are very nice and at the campsite you can swim in Lake Turkana.
Thompson Falls: No entry fee. Nice falls but not very special. As it is for free is it however nice to stop here when you are in the area.
Tiwi Beach: Nice place to chill on the beach. Fresh fruit, vegetables and fish brought to your tent every day. This is paradise and there are no other costs except for camping.
Hells Gate NP: 20 US$ per person and 300 KES for the car per day. Small park and as there are no large predators the only park where you can walk or cycle. Outside rainy season you can do a great hike through the gorge at the southern end of the park. We really liked this walk and it is for free. As the path is difficult to find a guide is a good idea.
Nakuru NP: 40 US$ per person and 300 KES for the car per day. Small park with a lot of animals. You will definitely see buffalo and black and white rhino here. Especially nice is the lake with thousands of flamingos.
Masai Mara NP: 40 US$ per person and 800 KES for the car per day. For us this was the best park. We saw many wildlife and a lot of big cats. If your timing is right and your are lucky you might witness the crossing of the Mara river by big herds of zebras or wildebeasts. This crossing is part of the famous migration between the Serengeti and the Masai Mara. Within the park we liked the Mara Triangle and the part at the below the river. The East side of the river (area called Rhino Hill) was pretty empty and not very interesting at the time we were there.
Chalbi dessert: Free. Very nice area for driving and bush camping.
In Busia, just before the border with Uganda you can get diesel or petrol
Fuel and groceries are slightly cheaper in Kenya than in Uganda
Third party insurances are cheap and easy to get in Kenya (see waypoints). For a little extra you can extend you insurance with Comesa and use it in most other African countries still to come. We paid about 9200 Shilling for 5 months.
Roads (July 2007)
Omorate - Koobi Fora in Sibiloi NP (only 4x4): One whole day of rough tracks
Sibiloi NP - Loyangalani (only 4x4): One whole day driving on rough track with a lot of big stones.
Loyangalani - Maralal (only 4x4): The road is long and the track rough. We did not manage this is one day. It took us about 1,5 day.
Maralal - Nyahururu: Most of the road is rough track. The last part is tarmac.
Nyahururu - Nairobi: tarmac
Nairobi - Voi: very bad tarmac
Voi - Tiwi Beach: Tarmac, about 4 hours
Nairobi - Nakuru: Tarmac with very bad sections
Nakuru - Narok (only 4x4): The C57 is a dirt track and only to do when it is dry. Do not try this road in rainy season.
Nairobi - Naivasha: tarmac
Naivasha - Narok: tarmac with a lot of big potholes
Narok - Sekenani Gate Masai Mara: bad tarmac and the last part is piste
Masai Mara: In the park there are only tracks, but they are OK.
Musiara Gate (Masai Mara) - Ngorengore (only 4x4): A very long drive and the first part is very rough. When it rains it is very slippery.
Ngorengore - Sotik: after 12 kilometers the tarmac starts.
Sotik - Kericho - Kisumu: Tarmac. After Kericho it is more potholes than tarmac.
Kisumu - Busia: Good tarmac
|Nederlandse Ambassade in Kenia|
|Riverside Lane, off Riverside Drive|
|P.O. Box 41537|
|Tel. 00-254-20-4447412/5/7 of 00-254-20-4450129/30/31/32/33|
|Open: maandag-donderdag 08:30-15:30|
www.kws.org - prices and information about the wildlife parks
|New year||1 January|
|Labour Day||1 May|
|Madaraka Day||1 June|
|Kanu Day||11 June|
|Moi Day||10 October|
|Kenyetta Day||20 October|
|Independance day||12 December|
|Christmas||25- 26 December|
Grid: Lat/Lon hddd°mm.mmm"
|Nairobi||S01.18.200||E036.49.616||Shop||High Ratio 4x4 Parts||Shop with heavy duty 4x4 parts|
|Nairobi||S01.21.178||E036.42.758||Place of interest||Karen Blixen Mueseum||Have not been here|
|Sibiloi NP||N03.56.876||E036.11.182||Camping||Koobi Fora||Basic lodge in Siboloi NP,with on the shore of Lake Turkana|
|Loyangalani||N02.45.418||E036.43.238||Camping||Maseratu Camp||Campsite run by loca women. Great warm showers (spring water)|
|Maralal||N01.56.904||E036.52.902||Bush camp||Bush camp between Loyangalani and Maralal|
|Maralal||N01.03.527||E036.42.649||Camping||Yare campsite||Spacious campsite. Camping on grass and the restaurant serves good food.|
|Nyahururu||N00.02.740||E036.22.057||Camping||Thompson Fall Lodge||Very nice place. The lodge has a piece of grass where you can camp. Entrance to the falls is for free|
|Nairobi||S01.17.325||E036.45.635||Camping||Jungle Junction||Overlanders paradise in Nairobi, best place in town|
|Voi||S03.22.248||E038.35.644||Camping||Red Elephant Lodge||Camping next to the lodge, just outside Tsavo NP. For toilet and shower we were given a room.|
|Tiwi Beach||S04.14.423||E039.36.083||Camping||Twiga Lodge||Great place where you can camp right on the beach. Toilet and showers are basic and there is no hot water. Fruit, vegetables and fish are sold on the beach.|
|Naivasha||S00.49.544||E036.20.109||Camping||Fishermans camp||Nice spacious campsite on the shores of lake Naivasha that is visited by hippos in the evening. Showers are hot and there is a good restaurant.|
|Nakuru||S00.18.012||E035.54.044||Camping||Kembu Camp||18 km outside Nukuru. Nice place with hot showers and a good restaurant. Can be very crowded with overland trucks.|
|Masai Mara||S01.30.694||E035.21.392||Camping||Oldarpoi Camp||Private campsite just outside Sekenani gate (Masai Mara). Clean toilets and hot showers|
|Masai Mara||S01.39.211||E035.13.082||Camping||Sandy River Camp||Campsite within the Masai Mara. Beautiful spot next to a river, but no facilities and very expensive.|
|Masai Mara||S01.12.187||E035.06.421||Camping||Bush camp||Bush camp just outside de Masai Mara NP, but still in the conservation area. Camping officially not allowed.|
|Kisumu||S00.06.752||E034.44.803||Hotel||Nyanza club hotel||Good hotel. Officially you have to be a member of the club, but we were allowed to stay without membership|
|Kisumu||S00.05.792||E034.43.979||Camping||Kisumu Beach Resort||The place is a pit, but the only option for camping in town. Sanitair is basic but showers are hot.|
|Nairobi||S01.17.963||E036.47.214||Shop||Extreme Carwash||They do a very good job|
|Masai Mara||S01.22.490||E034.59.833||Place of interest||One of the places where animals cross the river during the migration|
|Masai Mara||S01.22.860||E035.00.611||Place of interest||One of the places where animals cross the river during the migration|
|Masai Mara||S01.27.678||E035.02.486||Place of interest||One of the places where animals cross the river during the migration (accesible from the west side of the park)|
|Nairobi||S01.17.456||E036.49.444||Officials||Customs||Here you can stamp your carnet. Times Tower on the 10th floor|
|Illeret||N04.26.702||E036.13.854||Border||Border between Ethiopia and Kenya|
|Masai Mara||S01.10.786||E035.09.850||Place of interest||Musiara gate||Exit Masai Mara at Musiara gate|
|Mombasa||S04.03.719||E039.40.761||Place of interest||Fort Jezus||Old Fort in the Old Town of Mombasa|
|Hells Gate||S00.51.148||E036.22.145||Place of interest||Elsa Gate||Elsa gate, main entrance of Hells Gate NP|
|Illeret||N04.18.722||E036.13.679||Officials||Police station||Police station in Illerat. They do not stamp your passport here|
|Nairobi||S01.17.247||E036.49.086||Officials||Immigration||Immigration office in Nairobi|
|Nairobi||S01.17.693||E036.47.963||Shop||AAI Insurance Company||3rd floor. Here you can get a third party insurance for Kenya and your Comesa (Yellow Card),|
|Nakuru||S00.17.128||E036.04.239||Internet||Fedex||Good internet connection here|
|Nairobi||S01.17.555||E036.47.176||Internet||Fast internet with Skype options|
|Masai Mara||S01.30.384||E035.21.194||Junction||Junction to Oldarpoi Camp just before the Sekenani gate|
|Gilgil||S00.31.617||E036.19.856||Junction||Junction at Gilgil. Here the tarmac to Nairobi starts|
|Nakuru||S00.14.757||E035.56.535||Junction||Junction to Kembu Camp|
|Kericho||S00.57.456||E035.26.000||Junction||Here the tarmac to Kericho starts|
|Nakuru||S00.16.770||E036.01.718||Junction||Junction Nakuru - Njoro|
|Nakuru||S00.19.944||E035.56.642||Junction||Junction Nakuru - Njoro|
|Nairobi||S01.18.179||E036.49.815||Garage||Landrover||Official Landrover dealer|
|Nairobi||S01.20.366||E036.43.566||Garage||Schumacher||Very good private Landrover workshop.|
|Nairobi||S01.18.452||E036.45.673||Garage||Landmarque||Private Landrover workshop. Is a bit less expensive than Schumacher|
|Kisumu||S00.05.827||E034.45.037||Garage||CMC||Official Landrover dealer|
|Nairobi||S01.17.522||E036.47.151||Shop||Mul-T-Lock||Here you can buy padlocks to secure around your clutch|
|Nairobi||S01.17.551||E036.47.263||Shop||Yaya shopping Centre||Grote shopping mall. Inside is a good hairdresser|
|Nakuru||S00.29.503||E036.04.860||Place of interest||Nakuru NP||Main gate Nakuru NP|
|Narok||S01.05.480||E035.52.261||City Center||Small town, ATM for visa available|
|Ngorengore town||S01.02.701||E035.29.692||City Center|
|North Horr||N03.18.541||E037.03.186||City Center|
|Nakuru||S00.17.322||E036.03.457||Shop||Bawani auto parts||Everything you need for your car.|
|Sibiloi NP||N03.39.413||E036.18.920||Place of interest||Sibiloi NP||Main gate|
|Kisumu||S00.06.457||E034.46.171||Shop||Nakumat City||ATM for Visa|