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Kenya 2007



  • Days: 38
  • Period: July
  • Weather: In July it is winter in Kenya. In some place is can be cold. In Nairobi it was only 16 degrees during the day. In Nakuru area we had a lot of rain, despite the fact that rainy season was over. Around Mombasa we had one week of real summer, warm and dry and also in the Rift Valley around Naivasha the weather was warmer than elswhere.

General information:

  • Currency:  Kenyan Shilling (KSH)

  • Internet: Widely available throughout the country

  • ATM's: In almost every town there is an ATM for Visa. ATM's for Cirrus and Maestro are less common.

  • Creditcards: Creditcards are accepted but not used a lot. At some fuel stations we paid with Visa. Entrance fees for National parks cannot be paid with creditcard.

  • Safety: Kenya rebels can be active, so it is always wise to check with locals if you will travel to places like Moyale, around Lake Turkana, around Lamu and around Mount Elgon. During our trip Kenya we did not experience any unsafe situation. Also Nairobi, which has the name, was not that bad. In fact, we liked the city and felt safe driving around. We did however took precautions and did not go downtown and did not drive at night.

Prices (per July 2007)

  • Value Money: €1 = between 86-90 KES

  • Fuel:  Between 64 KES (Mombasa area) and 72 KES (Nairobi)

  • Camping: Between 200 and 500 Shilling per person per night. Camping in the National Parks was more expensive. Hells Gate NP 5 US$ / Nakuru NP 10 US$ / Masai Mara 15 US$ (all prices per person per night).



  • We got it in Khartoum. 50 US$ per person and issues within one hour. It seems you can also get it on the border, but when entering through Illeret you need it in advance. For GPS data of Kenyan embassy in Khartoum see Info Sudan.

  • Visa is a single entry visa. However as Uganda, Kenya and Tanzania form a Union you can travel between these countries without having to buy a new visa. Only when you exit to another country your single entry expires.

  • Standard your visa is valid for one month, but if at the immigration you immediately request a 3 months visa the change it to 3 months when stamping your passport. This can be handy if you want to circle between Uganda, Kenya and Tanzania.


Border crossing

  • ENTRY: We've entered Kenya north of Sibiloi NP close to Illeret coming from the Omo Valley in the south of Ethiopia. Here there is no official border post so no immigration or customs. Do not bother to go to the police station in Illeret, because they will not stamp your passport. When you enter through Illeret you must register yourself at the immigration in Nairobi (see waypoints). In this case you must have you visa in advance. The immigration in Nairobi is very easy. They do not ask much and just stamp your passport on the date wished. To have your Carnet stamped you must go to the customs in Nairobi (see waypoints). The customs in town might send you to the airport to clear you Carnet. They tried the same with us, but we just refused. If you have a visa  there are no further costs (no tax or duties)

  • EXIT: We left Kenya at Busia (border with Uganda). Formalities easy done and no costs.


Highlights or not

  • Driving from Illeret to Maralal: No costs. The best drive of the whole trip so far. This area is very remote but beautiful.

  • Sibiloi NP:  20 US$ per person and 300 KES for the car per day. Most of the wildlife has been poached so do no go here specially, but coming from Ethiopia it might be worth it. Although not much wildlife the surroundings are very nice and at the campsite you can swim in Lake Turkana.

  • Thompson Falls: No entry fee. Nice falls but not very special. As it is for free is it however nice to stop here when you are in the area.

  • Tiwi Beach: Nice place to chill on the beach. Fresh fruit, vegetables and fish brought to your tent every day. This is paradise and there are no other costs except for camping.

  • Hells Gate NP: 20 US$ per person and 300 KES for the car per day. Small park and as there are no large predators the only park where you can walk or cycle. Outside rainy season you can do a great hike through the gorge at the southern end of the park. We really liked this walk and it is for free. As the path is difficult to find a guide is a good idea.

  • Nakuru NP: 40 US$ per person and 300 KES for the car per day. Small park with a lot of animals. You will definitely see buffalo and black and white rhino here. Especially nice is the lake with thousands of flamingos.

  • Masai Mara NP: 40 US$ per person and 800 KES for the car per day. For us this was the best park. We saw many wildlife and a lot of big cats. If your timing is right and your are lucky you might witness the crossing of the Mara river by big herds of zebras or wildebeasts. This crossing is part of the famous migration between the Serengeti and the Masai Mara. Within the park we liked the Mara Triangle and the part at the below the river. The East side of the river (area called Rhino Hill) was pretty empty and not very interesting at the time we were there.

  • Chalbi dessert: Free. Very nice area for driving and bush camping.



  • In Busia, just before the border with Uganda you can get diesel or petrol

  • Fuel and groceries are slightly cheaper in Kenya than in Uganda

  • Third party insurances are cheap and easy to get in Kenya (see waypoints). For a little extra you can extend you insurance with Comesa and use it in most other African countries still to come. We paid about 9200 Shilling for 5 months.


Roads (July 2007)

  • Omorate - Koobi Fora in Sibiloi NP (only 4x4): One whole day of rough tracks

  • Sibiloi NP - Loyangalani (only 4x4): One whole day driving on rough track with a lot of big stones.

  • Loyangalani - Maralal (only 4x4): The road is long and the track rough. We did not manage this is one day. It took us about 1,5 day.

  • Maralal - Nyahururu: Most of the road is rough track. The last part is tarmac.

  • Nyahururu - Nairobi: tarmac

  • Nairobi - Voi: very bad tarmac

  • Voi - Tiwi Beach: Tarmac, about 4 hours

  • Nairobi - Nakuru: Tarmac with very bad sections

  • Nakuru - Narok (only 4x4): The C57 is a dirt track and only to do when it is dry. Do not try this road in rainy season.

  • Nairobi - Naivasha: tarmac

  • Naivasha - Narok: tarmac with a lot of big potholes

  • Narok - Sekenani Gate Masai Mara: bad tarmac and the last part is piste

  • Masai Mara: In the park there are only tracks, but they are OK.

  • Musiara Gate (Masai Mara) - Ngorengore (only 4x4): A very long drive and the first part is very rough. When it rains it is very slippery.

  • Ngorengore - Sotik: after 12 kilometers the tarmac starts.

  • Sotik - Kericho - Kisumu: Tarmac. After Kericho it is more potholes than tarmac.

  • Kisumu - Busia: Good tarmac


Important addresses


Nederlandse Ambassade in Kenia
Riverside Lane, off Riverside Drive
P.O. Box 41537
00100 Nairobi
Tel. 00-254-20-4447412/5/7 of 00-254-20-4450129/30/31/32/33
Fax 00-254-20-4447416
Open: maandag-donderdag 08:30-15:30
vrijdag 08:30-13:15


Links - prices and information about the wildlife parks




New year 1 January
Easter March/April
Labour Day 1 May
Madaraka Day 1 June
Kanu Day 11 June
Moi Day 10 October
Kenyetta Day 20 October
Independance day 12 December
Christmas 25- 26 December





Grid: Lat/Lon hddd°mm.mmm"


Nairobi S01.18.200 E036.49.616 Shop High Ratio 4x4 Parts Shop with heavy duty 4x4 parts
Nairobi S01.21.178 E036.42.758 Place of interest Karen Blixen Mueseum Have not been here
Sibiloi NP N03.56.876 E036.11.182 Camping Koobi Fora  Basic lodge in Siboloi NP,with on the shore of Lake Turkana
Loyangalani N02.45.418 E036.43.238 Camping Maseratu Camp Campsite run by loca women. Great warm showers (spring water)
Maralal N01.56.904 E036.52.902 Bush camp   Bush camp between Loyangalani and Maralal
Maralal N01.03.527 E036.42.649 Camping Yare campsite Spacious campsite. Camping on grass and the restaurant serves good food.
Nyahururu N00.02.740 E036.22.057 Camping Thompson Fall Lodge Very nice place. The lodge has a piece of grass where you can camp. Entrance to the falls is for free
Nairobi S01.17.325 E036.45.635 Camping Jungle Junction Overlanders paradise in Nairobi, best place in town
Voi S03.22.248 E038.35.644 Camping Red Elephant Lodge Camping next to the lodge, just outside Tsavo NP. For toilet and shower we were given a room.
Tiwi Beach S04.14.423 E039.36.083 Camping Twiga Lodge Great place where you can camp right on the beach. Toilet and showers are basic and there is no hot water. Fruit, vegetables and fish are sold on the beach.
Naivasha S00.49.544 E036.20.109 Camping Fishermans camp Nice  spacious campsite on the shores of lake Naivasha that is visited by hippos in the evening. Showers are hot and there is a good restaurant.
Nakuru S00.18.012 E035.54.044 Camping Kembu Camp 18 km outside Nukuru. Nice place with hot showers and a good restaurant. Can be very crowded with overland trucks.
Masai Mara S01.30.694 E035.21.392 Camping Oldarpoi Camp Private campsite just outside Sekenani gate (Masai Mara). Clean toilets and hot showers
Masai Mara S01.39.211 E035.13.082 Camping Sandy River Camp Campsite within the Masai Mara. Beautiful spot next to a river, but no facilities and very expensive.
Masai Mara S01.12.187 E035.06.421 Camping Bush camp Bush camp just outside de Masai Mara NP, but still in the conservation area. Camping officially not allowed.
Kisumu S00.06.752 E034.44.803 Hotel Nyanza club hotel Good hotel. Officially you have to be a member of the club, but we were allowed to stay without membership
Kisumu S00.05.792 E034.43.979 Camping Kisumu Beach Resort The place is a pit, but the only option for camping in town. Sanitair is basic  but showers are hot.
Nairobi S01.17.963 E036.47.214 Shop Extreme Carwash They do a very good job
Masai Mara S01.22.490 E034.59.833 Place of interest   One of the places where animals cross the river during the migration
Masai Mara S01.22.860 E035.00.611 Place of interest   One of the places where animals cross the river during the migration
Masai Mara S01.27.678 E035.02.486 Place of interest   One of the places where animals cross the river during the migration (accesible from the west side of the park)
Nairobi S01.17.456 E036.49.444 Officials Customs Here you can stamp your carnet. Times Tower on the 10th floor
Illeret N04.26.702 E036.13.854 Border   Border between Ethiopia and Kenya
Masai Mara S01.10.786 E035.09.850 Place of interest Musiara gate Exit Masai Mara at Musiara gate
Mombasa S04.03.719 E039.40.761 Place of interest Fort Jezus Old Fort in the Old Town of Mombasa
Hells Gate S00.51.148 E036.22.145 Place of interest Elsa Gate Elsa gate, main entrance of Hells Gate NP
Illeret N04.18.722 E036.13.679 Officials Police station Police station in Illerat. They do not stamp your passport here
Nairobi S01.17.247 E036.49.086 Officials Immigration Immigration office in Nairobi
Nairobi S01.17.693 E036.47.963 Shop AAI Insurance Company 3rd floor. Here you can get a third party insurance for Kenya and your Comesa (Yellow Card), 
Nakuru S00.17.128 E036.04.239 Internet Fedex Good internet connection here
Nairobi S01.17.555 E036.47.176 Internet   Fast internet with Skype options
Masai Mara S01.30.384 E035.21.194 Junction   Junction to Oldarpoi Camp just before the Sekenani gate
Gilgil S00.31.617 E036.19.856 Junction   Junction at Gilgil. Here the tarmac to Nairobi starts
Nakuru S00.14.757 E035.56.535 Junction   Junction to Kembu Camp
Kericho S00.57.456 E035.26.000 Junction   Here the tarmac to Kericho starts
Nakuru S00.16.770 E036.01.718 Junction   Junction Nakuru - Njoro
Nakuru S00.19.944 E035.56.642 Junction   Junction Nakuru - Njoro
Nairobi S01.18.179 E036.49.815 Garage Landrover Official Landrover dealer
Nairobi S01.20.366 E036.43.566 Garage Schumacher Very good private Landrover workshop. 
Nairobi S01.18.452 E036.45.673 Garage Landmarque Private Landrover workshop. Is a bit less expensive than Schumacher
Kisumu S00.05.827 E034.45.037 Garage CMC Official Landrover dealer
Nairobi S01.17.522 E036.47.151 Shop Mul-T-Lock Here you can buy padlocks to secure around your clutch
Nairobi S01.17.551 E036.47.263 Shop Yaya shopping Centre Grote shopping mall. Inside is a good hairdresser
Nakuru S00.29.503 E036.04.860 Place of interest Nakuru NP Main gate Nakuru NP
Narok S01.05.480 E035.52.261 City Center   Small town, ATM for visa available
Ngorengore town S01.02.701 E035.29.692 City Center    
North Horr N03.18.541 E037.03.186 City Center    
Nakuru S00.17.322 E036.03.457 Shop Bawani auto parts Everything you need for your car.
Sibiloi NP N03.39.413 E036.18.920 Place of interest Sibiloi NP Main gate
Kisumu S00.06.457 E034.46.171 Shop Nakumat City ATM for Visa